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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.